It may be the power supply anyway, to start with. I'll have to wait to buy one and find out. It worked perfectly and then went poof, sometimes locked up and you had to shut it off and on again. I've replaced the face plates with the new ribbon cables (success), 2 sliders (much success), 2 output jacks and headphone jack (all successes).
Someone has mentioned since that the power supply on these beasts causes weird problems, even though it will power on.
$ is tight right now, but I can buy 2 of them - only need 1 of course... I thought I was being as lucid as I could be, but maybe my descriptions could be a little better.
Thanks.
> ... It has been very quiet here and I've
asked some questions. since
> I haven't received any answers or queries, I
figured I'd ask...
Speaking only for myself, I suspect that there haven't
been many replies for two main reasons:
1) It isn't really clear what the 'problem'
is
2) It was already noted that "...No o-scope...am no
repair tech"
First - without having a good description of what is really
happening (under a controlled setup) there's no easy way
for anyone to make a meaningful suggestion as we don't
know exactly what you're doing (hence what you should be
seeing).
Second - most of these sorts of issues are 'easy' to
diagnose if you can follow the signal with a meter and/or
scope - but if that's not going to be possible, then as
much as folks might want to help, it becomes very difficult
(and not very likely) that some sort of generalized 'do
this and you'll be OK' comment can be made.
Some thoughts as to how it might make it easier for people
to help.
First - start with a 'standard' configuration that
other's can duplicate/evaluate.
For instance - let's start with a 'scratch'
patch. Select patch A1 (for instance). Then select Upper
Function, Erase Prog, and select "1". Now, when
you press the "A" bank, you should see that A1
isn't lighted. Select A1 and you will year a
'basic' sound.
You can then document what specific settings you are making
- for instance:
Osc 2 Sync button on
Cutoff Slider to 3/4
Now - if some concerns are being seen with the Resonance
slider, you can describe what that means/how you see it.
For instance - if with this setup perhaps you don't seem
to start to hear any change until the resonance slider has
been moved about 1/2" and/or perhaps you don't
happen to hear any further changes when the slider is in the
last 1/2" of travel or so - then this is likely
'normal'.
It is important to keep in mind that the Polaris doesn't
have direct analog control of the parameters. That means
there are a finite number of selection that the sliders will
give you. Some have more, some have less. For Resonance,
there are expected to be a total of 8 levels. So - whether
or not there is a 'dead zone' at the top and bottom
of the sliders, the key is whether you can hear 8 different
settings as you go through the range of the slider. If you
do (and if it is increasing/decreasing in the moved
direction) then likely all is well.
Please note that a 'clean slider' doesn't
necessarily mean a 'good slider'. It is absolutely
possible to have a worn-out or loose slider that feels good,
and slides nice, but it may not actually be making the
contact as it should. You can use a simple multi-meter to
measure the voltage from the middle connection of the pot,
to see if the voltage does cleanly slide from 0v -> 5V as
the slider is moved from one end to the other. If the value
jumps, or is erratic - then further attention is required to
the actual slider.
Note - it would be expected that all of the items in the
"Adjustments and Checkout" section of the Polaris
Service Manual would be reviewed and checked.
Good luck with your efforts - and hopefully with a few more
concrete observations the people on the list will be able to
give some more concrete suggestions.
David Clarke
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