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Subject: Re: [chromapolaris] OK - I Have Diagnostics Now And They Are Weird

From: Tracy Barber <adirondack_pc@...>
Date: 2018-06-01

So, stick the lack lead on one and the red lead on the other? What Ohms / Volts will I be looking for? Anything above 0?

The membranes are pretty tough now that Paul redid them. I have to watch it though because they have been jiggled around a bit.

OK, I see - high resistance. check for high Ohms on the pairs. Unless I was sold a bad brand new set of face "plates", they should be fine. Each line in the ribbons are good, except one has a small piece missing. Still 3/4 there.

Try this with the power on?

Since last message, I have reseated the connectors and have done so much with it I should be a whiz, but no - just a Dummy for Electronics. Except for computers, which are close but not close enough.

Tracy

--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 6/1/18, Bob Grieb bobgrieb@... [chromapolaris] <chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [chromapolaris] OK - I Have Diagnostics Now And They Are Weird
To: chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, June 1, 2018, 8:50 AM


 









What I would suggest is that you use a multimeter
to see if there is an electrical connection

between the two signals that I mentioned. You can measure
between other SWSTB pairs

to see what the resistance should be (high). I would say
do not unplug the flexes from the

membranes, or do any cleaning or spraying until you have
determined if there is a problem.

If you find a connection between those two signals that
shouldn't be there, then try to figure

out where the short is. But do your measurements first,
especially since the flexes are

somewhat fragile and you don't want to mess with them
any more than absolutely necessary.



Ideally, you use a meter and an oscilloscope to make
measurements that indicate

where problems lie, then you change chips, fix traces, etc
to fix the problem.



Bob



--------------------------------------------

On Fri, 6/1/18, Tracy Barber adirondack_pc@...
[chromapolaris] <chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com>
wrote:



Subject: Re: [chromapolaris] OK - I Have Diagnostics Now And
They Are Weird

To: chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com

Date: Friday, June 1, 2018, 12:58 AM



Bob -



I actually have them here. 

Section 9 of the service manual has the pairs. 
That's

where I got the info, from the site.  You have a good

idea, however...  I was looking at these but didn't

come up with any way to do anything with them.  Your

example would be "J" and "K", vibrato
and pitch pedal, glide

and rate pedal if you put all the cross overs together.



So, you're saying check out the ribbon

cables again for anything out of the ordinary?  That I

can do.  Clean them with alcohol, yes?



I sprayed the connectors with canned

air and used a little Deoxy D5 on them to clean them up

already.  Made sure they were in and lined up

properly.



Unfortunately, I can't check the side

that is connected to the face plates because they're
buried

under the material.  Also, they're brand new. 

Sheesh...  I also did the "S" curve as told to
by the

video.  I sure wished they would've spent a few more
$

on real connectors.  You also can't get a swab in
there

to clean the contacts better.  I wonder if an alcohol

pad would work?



Tracy



∗∗∗∗





If you go to this site, and scroll

down to the bottom, you

can see the connections to the front

panel membrane

switches.



These are not shown in the service

manual schematics.








http://www.rhodeschroma.com/?id=polarisserviceschematics







If you look at switches A and G you

will see that one end of

each is common, and only the other end

is different.



One connects to J9A-3 SWSTB4 and the

other connects to J9A-4

SWSTB5.  If something is

shorting those two



signals together, such as a solder

splash, or possibly a bit

of the old membrane flex still in the

connector, then when





you press G, you could get an A. 

A lot of other pairs of

switches would also be joined by such

a short.  I suggest





you troubleshoot the front panel issue

and get it resolved

before trying to troubleshoot anything

else.  A DMM

measuring



resistance should help to see if there

is some kind of short

between those two signals.







Bob