Thanks for the info Ben, I'm quite glad I didn't attempt to touch them
now (I have a tendency for fiddling when it comes to gear). from what
I could actually see of the ribbons, they didnt appear broken, but, I
didn't remove the panels, and could only see the bends of them
basically. Let me know if you find the calibration procedures, If it
keeps kicking after that, I won't feel the need to fix the ribbons
until I'm forced to (which will most undoubtably be at the worst time,
hehe)

Thanks,
Byron

On Mon, 02 Aug 2004 20:21:44 -0000, bkuris <benjamin.kuris@...> wrote:
> One pot, by the gold colored chip is a trim adjustment for the DAC.
> The polaris's CPU uses this to generate CV voltages that are clocked
> into the various sound generating parameters. When the Polaris was
> designed, DACs were expensive so there is just one and that is
> shared. The service manual describes calibrating this, and I've
> done it (I had a bad DAC and built a new one using modern parts) but
> you need a very good meter. I doubt that is your problem.
>
> Another by the power supply (I think) pot is for the "power ok" set
> point. You shouldn't need to touch that either unless you are having
> issues getting your keyboard to reset properly on power cycles.
>
> As for the sliders, the service manual describes how to do a s/w
> calibration of the sliders. You put it in this mode (I don't have
> service manual in front of me), and then just move the sliders
> through their range.
>
> However, it sounds like you have the common problem of
> damage/cracking on the aging ribbon wires that plug into the contol
> panel. Carefully examine them, and if they are cracked they will
> need to be repaired. On my polaris, I cut back to good material and
> used a meter to verify contact.
>
> Also, the resonance control isn't 12bit analog like the others, it
> has only 8 positions (3 digital control lines).
>
> -Ben


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